从女性主义视角看西方文化对中国现当代服饰文化的影响

VIP免费

3.0 陈辉 2024-11-19 4 4 533.6KB 53 页 15积分

侵权投诉

Acknowledgements

Eventually, the thesis has been completed. I would like to acknowledge my debts

to all those who have guided, helped and encouraged me in thesis writing during these

months.

I would like first to owe my deepest gratitude to my supervisor Professor Ye

Sheng-nian who provided me with many valuable suggestions and instructions in my

study. Without his academic guidance and personal support, this thesis would not have

been completed.

I also owe my deep gratitude to other professors who taught me during my study

at Shanghai University for Science and Technology. It is them who proposed some

helpful suggestions to my thesis.

I also want to extend special thanks to some good friends who have inspired and

encouraged me all along whenever I encountered difficulties in the thesis writing.

I finally express my gratitude to my family for their loving and caring support.

Abstract

It can be said that the history of human society is just a history of cultural

development. All of the material and spiritual wealth, created by human in the process

of social practice, could be described in relation to culture. Edward Tylor, a British

anthropologist, says that culture is “that complex whole which includes knowledge,

belief, art, morals, law, custom, and any other capabilities and habits acquired by man as

a member of society” (Tylor, 1924:1). However, as an abstract concept, culture has to be

represented by specific form of either material or spiritual development, such as art,

entertainment and clothing. Clothing, as the important component of human culture,

could provide us with a great demonstration of history, although changes in fashions

throughout civilization might appear trivial. Generally, clothing is an efficient way to

reflect social culture with distinctive sociality, which symbolizes the spirit of the times,

just like people’s saying “clothing is a mirror of history”.

This thesis attempts to focus on the influences of Western culture upon Chinese

modern clothing culture since the 1911 Revolution, which evolved against Chinese

social and cultural developments at the same time. The structure of this thesis is a

chronological order of the three stages of historical development consisting of the initial

stage of the Republic of China (ROC), the early years of the People’s Republic of China

(PRC), and the new period of the reform. Relatively speaking, these stages are the most

important periods that Western culture has great influences on Chinese modernization.

Principally based on the three chapters, this thesis explores the tremendous

influences that Western culture exerted on Chinese cultural modernization and clothing

of different periods in the modern age as well as the significance of clothing changes to

Chinese social and cultural developments by focusing on a number of pieces of typical

clothing, namely, Sun Yat-sen suit,Qipao, flared trousers, miniskirt, T-shirt and jeans.

The birth of these new types of clothing is the demand of certain social and cultural

developments and the symbol of a new society, which represents the new aesthetic sense

and new orientation of certain social and cultural conditions. For instance, through Sun

Yat-sen suit and Qipao, we could find out the profound influence of European-American

culture on Chinese clothing reform in the period of 1911 Revolution and the May 4th

Movement; through the Lenin suit, we could find out the tremendous influence of the

Soviet culture on Chinese extra-Leftist culture in the early years of the PRC. Finally,

through T-shirt and jeans, we could clearly see the great impact that American culture

represented by popular culture produces on Chinese cultural modernization in the new

period of the reform.

Of course, these Western influences have both advantages and disadvantages.

Based on a comparison of Chinese and Western cultures, this thesis would further its

analysis and assessment of the necessary factors concerned with clothing culture by

means of feminism associated with Marxism in the process of critical work.

Key Words: Chinese clothing, Western culture, Feminism

摘要

可以说，人类社会的全部历史就是一部文化发展史。英国人类学家泰勒在

《原始文化》一书里的定义为：“文化，或文明，就其广泛的民族学意义来说，是

包括全部的知识、信仰、艺术、道德、法律、风俗以及作为社会成员的人所掌握

和接受的任何其他的才能和习惯的复合体”（吴克礼，2002：50）。由此，凡是人

类在社会历史实践过程中所创造的一切物质财富和精神财富，都可归结为文化。

而文化的变迁却总是附着在具体而直观的物质之上的。对此，形象生动的服装就

为我们提供了历史最好的注解。服饰是人类文化的显性表征。服饰文化是一种大

众文化形态，也是一种最具时尚性和流行性的文化形态。从服饰的发展变化中能

够折射出社会的变革、文化潮流和风俗习惯等历史进程。正像人们所说的：“服饰

是历史的一面镜子”。

大家都知道现代化最早发生在西方,也最先普及于西方。因此,当一个发展中

国家以现代化为目标时,必然要接受那些最先孕育于西方并与现代化进程相适应的

现代性文化价值观念的影响。因此，本文试图以中国特定历史时期，都市典型服

饰变化中特定的文化意义与内涵为主要着眼点，来关注在现代化进程中西方文化

对中国现代服饰变革的影响力。进而，折射出西方文化在中国社会和现代文化发

展中的巨大影响力。本文所选取的史料时间分为三个阶段－民国初期、新中国时

期，改革开放及全球化时期。相对来说，这几个阶段是中国服饰发生变化最快也

是最为明显的时期，因为它们是中国近现代史上重要的对外开放期，是西方文化

对中国现代化发展影响最为深刻的时期。

本文的主体部分共分为三章。以女性主义和马克思主义为视角，本文对于

这三个时期的几个极具代表性的时尚现象中所表现出的文化变迁进行了勾勒和剖

析，指出所谓的西方文化影响在这几个时期是具体而有侧重点的。进而探讨了西

方文化对中国现代化及文化发展的巨大影响力。比如：辛亥革命，五四时期主要

是通过中山装和旗袍来看欧美文化对当时中国服饰改革的巨大影响力；建国初期

主要是通过列宁装来看前苏联文化在中国极左文化中的主导地位；改革开放后则

是通过 T恤和牛仔裤来看美国文化尤其是大众文化在中国现代文化发展中的超强

影响力。

关键词：中国服饰西方文化女性主义

CONTENTS

Acknowledgements

Abstract

摘要

Introduction .....................................................................................................................1

Chapter One Significance of New Clothing during the Initial Stage of the ROC:

Early Influence of Western Culture .............................................................................. 5

§1.1 The Enlightenment of Western Culture ..............................................................5

§1.2 The Influences of Western Culture on Chinese Clothing Reform ..................... 6

§1.2.1 Sun’s Modernized Clothing Reform ........................................................ 6

§1.2.2 Chinese Women’s Changes in Ideology and Aesthetic Sense ................10

§1.2.3 Qipao and the Identification of Sex Role .............................................. 14

§1.3 Summary .......................................................................................................... 19

Chapter Two Significance of Chinese Changed Clothes in the Early Years of the

PRC: A Reflection on Extra-Leftist Influence ............................................................21

§2.1 Russianized Transition in Cultural Communication ........................................ 21

§2.2 The Influences of Extremely Revolutionary Culture .......................................22

§2.2.1 The Lenin Suit and Russianization ........................................................ 22

§2.2.2 Women’s Cross-dressing ........................................................................23

§2.2.3 The Annotation of Western Postmodernist Feminism ............................25

§2.3 Summary .......................................................................................................... 26

Chapter Three Significance of Chinese Wearing during the New Period of the

Reform: A Reassessment of Western Influence ..........................................................27

§3.1 The Powerful Guidance of Western Culture .................................................... 27

§3.1.1 Western Flared Trousers and Chinese People’s Awakening ...................27

§3.1.2 Chinese Women’s Modernized Transition ............................................. 30

§3.2 Cultural Globalization ......................................................................................32

§3.2.1 T-shirt and the Cultural Platform ........................................................... 34

§3.2.2 Jeans and Americanism ..........................................................................37

§3.2.3 Summary ................................................................................................ 40

Conclusion ..................................................................................................................... 43

Bibliography .................................................................................................................. 46

在读期间发表论文 ........................................................................................................ 49

Introduction

§1 The Background

Clothing is of great importance in human life, which takes the first place in an

order of priority as witnessed in clothing, food, shelter and transportation. However, in

addition to a major factor in human material life, it is also an important symbol of

social civilization representing the culture of a certain period or a certain district. As an

essential part of life style, clothing is a form of culture, which has worked together

with other cultural forms and has influenced human beings. Clothing is a special

language that expresses human spiritual life, just like people’s second skin.

In a way, clothing as a cultural symbol is synchronic with cultural changes, and

represents the outermost layer of a culture, which transmits the current social climate.

That is, it reflects politics, economy and ideology distinctively, concerns values of the

specific times visually and records each page of history exactly. Therefore, clothing

changes could inevitably bring about the changes of people’s lifestyle, ways of

thinking and values. In short, clothing culture is the complicated cultural phenomenon

that symbolizes the high development of material civilization and reflects certain social

and spiritual conditions. Thus, as part of a society’s material culture, clothing can

effectively be studied as an example of cultural change and serve as a cultural carrier to

symbolize Sino-foreign civilizations.

§2 The Motivation

The whole of the 20th century is a history of conflict, communication and

intermingling between Chinese and Western cultures. In this century, Oriental culture

could not go out of the shadow of Western influences. The great changes of Chinese

clothing have been branded with this phase of historical advances. In each specific

pattern of culture, clothing is essentially the extension of cultural rules. The popularity

of new styled clothing has the deep-layer cultural connotations. From the difficultly

identified Western clothes to Sun Yat-sen suit and Qipao---the combination of Chinese

and Western cultures, from Western suit and flared trousers fads throughout the nation

文档加载中……请稍候！
如果长时间未打开，您也可以点击刷新试试。

下载文档到电脑，查找使用更方便

15 积分 4人已下载

立即下载 VIP免费下载

摘要：

AcknowledgementsEventually,thethesishasbeencompleted.Iwouldliketoacknowledgemydebtstoallthosewhohaveguided,helpedandencouragedmeinthesiswritingduringthesemonths.IwouldlikefirsttoowemydeepestgratitudetomysupervisorProfessorYeSheng-nianwhoprovidedmewithmanyvaluablesuggestionsandinstructionsinmystudy.W...

展开>> 收起<<

从女性主义视角看西方文化对中国现当代服饰文化的影响.pdf

共53页,预览6页

还剩页未读，继续阅读

从女性主义视角看西方文化对中国现当代服饰文化的影响

相关推荐

开通VIP享超值会员特权

作者详情

相关内容

推荐作者

热门标签

举报选择: